I usually give my hands/forearms more than a day and a half of rest between sessions, but I wanted to practice what we learned Wednesday night at least a couple times before the next class.
Completed a V0, V0, V1, V2, V2. I also attempted two other V2’s, a V2+, and a V3, but the short rest meant my arms tired quickly.
All good, because the 2 V2 problems I completed were ones I couldn’t figure out a couple weeks ago.
One of them was the problem I had attempted over and over, falling off the wall over and over. I watched someone do it last week with a different move for the hold I couldn’t reach. I tried that move today, still couldn’t reach it, and fell off. I tried it again. With Wednesday’s class fresh in my mind, I used a foothold I would previously have considered uncomfortably close to my hands. This gave me just enough reach; I sprung for the elusive sloper, got my hand around it, and finished the problem.
The other was a problem where I couldn’t get stable/balanced enough to reach for the finish. I tried it again today, and again got stuck near the top. I sat on the ground and puzzled over it for a few minutes, then realized I could flip my hand on the last big hold and pull up. Once I did that, I had plenty of leeway to finish the problem. I have my technique book to thank for this one. I had just read a blurb last night about those holds and how to tension my body when I use them.
Yay for new techniques!