Hips Don’t Lie

a.k.a It’s All In The Hips Part 2.

Today I found myself working on a V4 with some not super wonderful (for me) holds. On a couple occasions, I’d reach a hold but not be able to hang on.

After reaching for and sliding off the second to last hold, I took a moment to assess. Clearly I could reach the hold, and in the brief moment I touched it I assessed that it was decent. So why couldn’t I hang on?

Because I was reaching for it. I was reaching with my arm, getting my fingers on the hold, then getting pulled off by my body, which in that moment was about as useful as a sack of potatoes.

Duh! Climbed my way back up, got my body oriented properly, planted my feet, initiated movement with my hips, and drove up toward the hold. Grabbed it hold of it no problem. Super solid.

I’ve been focusing on straight arms during my warmup climbs. Looks like I should add hip drive to the list.

Of Course It’s White

There’s a new V4 I’m working on.

It’s white.

That is all.

Update 2018-12-26 @ 9:15 PM

I left for vacation the next morning, flew back yesterday, and solved it this morning.

Sideways dyno with right hand and foot barn door landing, check!

Update 2018-12-30 @ 12:56 PM

This morning I watched as a middle school aged phenom playfully swung her way up this problem, employing moves neither I nor anyone I’ve watched ever thought to do. It was a beautiful sight, and a wonderful lesson in creativity and technique. There’s so much to learn, in the best possible way.

It’s All In The Hips

The last time I went bouldering, I struggled on a steep (overhanging) V3. Despite having climbed this problem before, I couldn’t get my hand up to a hold and hang on, and I couldn’t figure out why.

At home, I’m slowly making my way through a book on climbing technique. I’m currently reading a chapter on movement initiation, center of mass, arching your back, and leading with your hips.

All of a sudden, everything clicked. I had trouble reaching that hold and hanging on because my hips were pulling me down.

Revisited the problem this morning. Initiated with the hips. Easy peasy.

It’s all in the hips. I’ve learned this lesson over and over again: shooting a hockey puck, riding a manual (the few times I’ve managed one), playing taiko, rotating freestyle, and now on the climbing wall.

I want to start playing tennis again, now that I have a better understanding of body movement and power generation. I’m super curious about doing something I learned naturally as a kid with my new analyze everything mindset.


The day I solved That White V4, I attempted a different white V4 that had recently gone up in the other room.

Three moves in, I hit a wall. Or maybe a gap. The fourth move was a left hand hold 5 feet above the previous hold. I’m 5’6″. That’s a long distance.

I tried jumping, but my first few attempts landed my hand short, or too far from the wall.

I thought about the setup, and what I learned doing that OTHER white V4 earlier this year. (There is definitely a theme here.) I decided I needed to pull in with my arms, push up with my right leg, and keep pushing with my left leg.

That launched me high enough to reach the hold, but I couldn’t hang on with my full body weight and momentum swinging away from the wall. That, and my left shoulder is not super happy at the moment.

I climbed up to the elusive hold, grabbed it, and put my left foot on the hold it had launched from. I didn’t need to launch.

The next go around, I pulled in with my arms, pushed up with my right leg, and pushed up with my left leg with just enough power to boost me to the hold, but not so much that I came off.

I caught the hold, continued swinging left, and fell off.

Back to the drawing board. What was my right hand doing? Nothing. I climbed back up to the elusive hold, grabbed it with my left hand, grabbed it with my right hand, and swung. Solid.

All right, then. Everything I did before, plus put my right hand on the hold for the swing.

That did the trick.

I had the same reaction after watching this video as I did after watching the one from last week. How could something I found so difficult look so easy? Is it actually easy, or am I making it look easy?

I guess that depends on how good a climber you are.

Update 2019-01-02 @ 7:28 AM

Earlier this week I saw a guy do this with one hand and his foot on the launch. It was a good reminder that I probably could do it differently with better grip strength.

If I were super serious about this climbing thing I’d hang board and O-ring and elastistretch thing, but I’m happy to just let that develop with wall time.

That White V4

I haven’t been writing much about climbing. The last couple months have mostly been morning bouldering sessions. I’ve been climbing everything between V0 and V3, plus a smattering of V4s. Once I decide to climb something, I generally work on it until I solve it. Most things don’t take more than a couple sessions to solve.

Except for this one white V4. They put it up at the beginning of October, and I must have climbed this thing 20 times over 6 weeks before finally solving it. I’d try and get stuck, try and get stuck again, go home, think about alternatives, try and get stuck, repeat.

I went home and thought some more. The thing I was stuck on were a pair of near-vertical holds toward the top. They’re shaped and angled such that there’s nothing to hook or hang your fingers on. The hold is all about hand strength. (At least it is to me based on my current skill.)

Fortuitously, I destroyed my hands at taiko a couple weeks ago. I wondered if some liquid chalk would provide some blister-free grip, so I finally sprung for a tube of the stuff. The chalk arrived, did exactly the opposite of what I wanted for taiko, but now I finally had some long lasting crazy dry grip for the holds I kept sweaty hands sliding off.

A fresh application of liquid chalk, plus a dusting of plain old Gorilla Grip chalk was all I needed to trust that I could stick well enough to complete the moves:

I cheated a little in this video: My left knee actually bumps against the long black hold when I rock to the left. I adjusted after watching this, straightening my knee a little more (I think) and rocking a little less to the left to finish the problem cleanly.

Upon studying the video, I decided to write this post for my future self. This problem actually required a lot of skills I’ve learned in the past year. I wanted to write them down, then come back a few years from now to see much more I’ve learned.

  • 0:08 – Upper body low on the start. You’ll peel off the wall if your upper body is up high, which I didn’t realize until a guy was trying to do this the other day and asked how I wasn’t falling off the start.
  • 0:10 – Turning your feet (and thus body) in place.
  • 0:17 – Back flag. I flag a lot, back flag almost never, but it was perfect here to keep my body from barn dooring.
  • 0:32 – I’ve actually tucked my hip onto that hold on the right.
  • 0:50 – I’m pushing down with my right foot, up with my right knee, and wedging my right leg in place between the two holds.
  • 0:53 – Repeating, “Trustyourgrip trustyourgrip trustyourgrip,” over and over ahead in my head.
  • 0:57 – Left knee is in an ugly rock-over. I’m just learning this technique, and as I study the video I realize I could have relied on it more at 0:42 as well.
  • 1:00 – OMG I made it to the far left hold!!!
  • 1:04 – Switching feet. Could have been cleaner, but at least I didn’t slip switching like I did at 0:13.
  • 1:10 – One attempt before this video, I felt sooo good knowing I could reach that final hold. In this video, I’m disappointed that I touched my knee on the black hold again. In the next and final attempt, I’m super thrilled about solving it fully.

Too much? Am I overanalyzing?

I think that’s actually a good thing.

Update: 2018-11-22 @ 9:02 AM

When I went to the gym yesterday morning they were replacing all the bouldering routes in that area. I solved this just in time!


This weekend, I looked at a 5.10a route and asked, “How quickly can I climb this thing?”

I tied in and scrambled up the wall as fast as I could. 57 seconds.

Once back on the ground, I counted the number of hand hold moves: 20.

Given the standard pattern of hand hold, move one foot, move other foot, repeat, that comes out to approximately one move per second.

On one hand, I’m pleased that I could decide and move without interruption. Also, my forearms weren’t at all tired from the climb.

On the other hand, it simply wasn’t fun. It turns out one of the things I like about climbing is deliberately planting and feeling a solid hold and balanced body position. I don’t get that when I’m just trying to move fast.

Speed climbing (this wasn’t even close), definitely not my thing.


Back to the bouldering cave this morning to work on a not yet solved V3.

The penultimate move on this problem is a jump to a fat, non-juggy hold. These kinds of holds are not on my list of strengths, and it took me well over 10 tries over 2 sessions to start sticking it half the time.

Once there, both hands end up on this hold, and the next move is another jump to finish.

For me, the first jump is facing the wall. The second is with my right hip on the wall.

All this is to say that I warmed up on a few V0s this morning and my forearms felt crappy. I wasn’t really in a mood to work on the problem, but then one of the regulars I know came by and asked what I was working on. He gave it a try, had similar difficulties on the final move, and we took turns trying to puzzle it out. It was way more fun that way, and eventually I stuck the whole thing.

It felt a lot like last week. I’m really digging the weekday morning bouldering crew.


Back to the bouldering caves at my gym this morning. Got some good tips from a couple folks there, one who happens to be the gym manager, and one who’s better than me in that played hockey in high school kind of way. It was interesting to study them make the same moves with totally different body positioning. When they saw me struggle on problems they’d completed, they offered tips. “Turn your hip” or “use a heel hook”. I learned a lot by tweaking techniques I’ve found generally workable into something more solid. It’s all basics, but it never hurts to have a reminder.

– turn your hip to get your body closer to the wall
– use your feet to pull you into the wall
– trust your feet when they’re pushing on a hold
– get your feet higher
– body tension
– use your thumbs, they’re opposable!

These are all things I already know and often coach others on, but being reminded to do it better by someone who just did it better was incredibly valuable. Also, we cheered each other on. There’s a lot to be said for good vibes and encouragement.

This is one of the things I love about bouldering. You don’t get interaction like this on a rope.

Playing On Rocks

Took an outdoor bouldering class today. This was my third time climbing outdoors. The first two were top rope outings.

Bouldering has a totally different feel to it. It’s so… simple. Shoes, chalk, and crash pads. I really enjoyed not having to set up and manage extra gear.

We worked on 6 problems at a couple sites across from Castle Rock State Park: Hash Rock and Nature Nazi. The most obvious difference between indoor and outdoor? Outdoor holds aren’t nearly as obvious, and are generally way smaller than the ones at the gym. While a V0 indoors might be all jugs, you may get a single jug outdoors. And often you won’t know it’s there until your hand lands on it.

The more important difference between indoor and outdoor, however, is that the outdoor problems allow for a lot more creativity. There may be a recognized set of moves to a problem, but there’s much a much greater variety of holds and positions to choose from.

Our group was comprised of one instructor and four students. It was the perfect class size, and a fantastic mix of enthusiasm and encouragement.

My best (although perhaps not favorite) moment: Getting near the top of a problem and not feeling like I had any good options. I noticed myself starting to feel uneasy, then remembered how a couple other students had wound up in similar situations earlier in the day. Watching them it was clear that unease only made things worse, so I made myself stop and chill for a moment before continuing on. Not-good options became workable options, and I found my way to the top.

Spending a morning in nature playing on rocks! A+++++++ WOULD DO AGAIN!!!1!

Today’s aftermath: I can’t fingerprint unlock any of my devices. I find this fairly amusing.

On Rappel!

Filed under: Things I’ve never done that I’ve always wanted to learn how to do.

Also filed under: Things I love about REI #537.

Rappelling. It’s a thing you do if you climb out in the world a lot (which I don’t). It’s a thing they raffle off for fundraisers. It’s a thing that looks kind of fun. It’s a thing I’ve never done. Until Sunday.

Because REI is super rad, learning how to rappel was as easy as signing up on a website and showing up.

Easy, but not simple. There were a lot of steps, mostly centered around teaching us how to not die rappelling carelessly.

How to not die rappelling carelessly, artificial top rope environment edition:

1. Climb up. Tension.
2. Set two anchors. Test them out.
3. Come off belay.
4. Set up the rappel rope. I finally used both holes in my ATC!
5. Make sure the rappel setup works.
6. Set up third hand.
7. Make sure the third hand works. Will it stop you?
8. Unset anchors. Your third hand’s got you!
9. Rappel down.
10. Profit!

It’s hard to explain what the rappel should look like, and what the third hand looks like. That’s what internet guides are for. Mostly, I’m documenting what we learned.

How do we set up all those anchors, not lose the rope, and tie a third hand? With knots! And maybe some hitches. And maybe learn about the difference between knots (which can exist on their own) and hitches (which require something else to exist) along the way. I won’t talk about them all here, but…

A knot I’ve never tied before but find super cute: The barrel knot. Great for keeping your rope from flying off at the end! Oh, and did I mention super cute? It’s super cute!

We learned a couple third hand hitches: The autoblock and the prusik. The idea is to make a hitch that allows the rope to slide if you position it so it’s loose, but cinch tight if you let go to stop you from falling. I’d never thought about using ropes in this manner and am all of a sudden finding knots and hitches super interesting. Also, I find the prusik very symmetrically pleasing.

I wish the word symmetric were a palindrome of symmetrical letters.

We also used a bunch of slings, and clipped all sorts of stuff to our harnesses. I say stuff and not gear here because even though it’s gear, it’s only a small and gentle subset of what you’d use for outdoor lead climbing. Still, it was nice to finally use a few of those loops on my harness.

Now I know how rappelling works! And I can say I’ve done my own non-careless setup and lowered myself without dying. :)