This weekend, I looked at a 5.10a route and asked, “How quickly can I climb this thing?”
I tied in and scrambled up the wall as fast as I could. 57 seconds.
Once back on the ground, I counted the number of hand hold moves: 20.
Given the standard pattern of hand hold, move one foot, move other foot, repeat, that comes out to approximately one move per second.
On one hand, I’m pleased that I could decide and move without interruption. Also, my forearms weren’t at all tired from the climb.
On the other hand, it simply wasn’t fun. It turns out one of the things I like about climbing is deliberately planting and feeling a solid hold and balanced body position. I don’t get that when I’m just trying to move fast.
Speed climbing (this wasn’t even close), definitely not my thing.